Showing posts with label Construction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Construction. Show all posts

Thursday, April 16, 2009

I am a Hobbing Machine - fear me!


Usually a hobbing machine is a tool that cuts gears. In my case, I am a hobbing machine that hobbles gears by cutting them poorly.

Turns out, gears aren't just square teeth; if that were the case the driven gear would jitter - the speed would vary as the teeth slid by each other. This is what mechanical engineers like to call "bad".

As you can see from the diagram on the right (from the wikipedia Gear entry), there are many parameters that need to mesh in order for a spur gear to not bind, break, slip, backlash, splinter, wobble, or catch on fire topple over and fall into the swamp.

The real key to the kingdom is the curve on each face of the gear tooth. This curve is called the involute curve (click link to see animated curve).

See how these gears mesh; the velocity is kept constant, and the point of stress slides along nicely:

(Click to see below pic nicely animated)


Mine will probably look more like a lurching, lumbering epileptic one-legged ex-movie starlet going through detox, but I'm fine with that - should help the cheering when it inevitably gives up the ghost and sinks into the morass of the Baltimore Inner Harbour. Yeah me ;-)

And remember kids: Try this at home!

Useful links uncovered in this sub-quest:

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Rosie The Riveters Granddaughter

Don't tell the labor department, but Rosie The Riveters granddaughter is an awesome worker. She drilled and riveted the corner without once going on strike; Boeing should be so lucky.


Pay no attention to that stop sign, dear... it's for the doubters.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

How NOT to Weld



Uh, guess we'll be sticking with rivets & duct tape for awhile.

How to Build a Corner

Here are the steps to build a corner using the tube-and-gusset method. Click on the pictures to zoom in for a closer look at the *cough cough* fine workmanship.

1. Build the beams; see last post in blog for comments on this.



2. Line up the beams using a square edge. Chalk or pencil on the garage florr helps, and sliding a piece of Duct Tape under the corner, sticky side up, will help hold the angle prior to clamping or riveting.



3. Cut the gusset out of steel flashing material. Should be from relatively not-thin material; could be aluminum. The critical measurement here is the 90 degree corner of the gusset, and that is only to make the bending easier; the diagonal length, angles don't really matter as long as there is enough metal to actually act as a gusset and hold the corner together. Note when sizing the cut, the material should hang a good half inch over the edge since this will be folded down to wrap the edges of the beam, and then riveted.


4. Shape the gusset. Bend the edges over using flat pliers, a table edge, or your square sense of humor. The pliers shown here are made expressly for bending thin metal into straight edges; the mouth is about 3 inches wide. As should be self evident, these bends should be at a 90 degree angle; if gusset piece was cut to 90, you can use the marking on the edge of the pliers, or just measure and mark with a sharpie marker. A small cut will be needed in the corner.


5. Rivet gusset top. Three rivets per beam, or more but they should not be closer than a half inch fto each other. Note the sides are not riveted yet, that is done in the last step - not sure why I ended up with that habit but there you go.


6. Make the corner brace. This is made from a section of beam that has not been riveted together yet. Prepare to lose a about a quart of blood while cutting, sizing, fitting, and re-cutting these pieces. Note the piece's edge flaps will need to be flattened out where they will be slid under the main beams; while a hammer is satisfying, a pair of pliers will do just fine here. These corner pieces are roughly 10 inches long, the inner flaps that get folded 45 degrees are about and inch and a half here; the outer piece's flaps are shorter only because I was too cheap to cut a longer piece out. These flaps will end up with a rivet (inner) or two (outer) at the end of the day, so they need to be long enough for that, eh.


7. Fit the corner brace; prepare to do this several hundred times making small adjustments. Note the pieces are not riveted together just yet - you need to be able to slide them in relation to each other in order to get the 90 degree angle.


8. Rivet corner brace. Drill one hole, insert rivet (put do not pull rivet yet), drill furthest hole from the first one, insert rivet (but do not pull yet), repeat. Don't forget yer flaps, eh.


9. Drill and rivet gusset sides.


10. Gusset other side. When reverse side is accessible, build and attach a gusset to it. Remember to rivet the other side of the diagonal corner beam as well if you did not prior to installation. If both sides are accessible at the same time, or if you care enough to gerryrig the very best, you can make a "wrap around" gusset using an L shaped piece that has the elbow of the L riveted to one side, and the legs of the L wrapped around and riveted to the reverse side.

11. Repeat. About 63 more times, not counting mess-ups.

....and that's all I have to say about that.

Beams

Most of the Walking Machine is built using the old tube-and-gusset aircraft building technique, except we couldn't afford the aluminum tubing so it's really steelbeam-and-gusset technique.

The beams are made out of drywall U beams which are very light steel but somewhat structural.

It's a simple method:
  1. Align two beams facing each other and cram together
  2. Apply pressure to get the edge folds to clamp over the other beam
  3. Apply rivets liberally
They are lightweight (equivalent to electrical conduit tubing) and relatively strong (better than electrical conduit tubing).

Each 8 foot beam, assembled, costs about $6.50, not including the electricity for the drill or the band-aids for the builder.

Introducing the Walking Machine

First posted on http://HattenBlog.blogspot.com

Dad here. Still trying to build a race vehicle for the Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race which is on May 2nd this year. To the right is the inspiration for the design. The race requires that the vehicle be human powered, complete the 13 miles course, and even swim through part of the Baltimore Inner Harbor... which as you can imagine causes many, uh, unintended baths.

I've got a book full of design details that I've been working on for almost a year now (since 'K' and I cheered on last years race) however we just now started building... only about 3 weeks to go, and some of that time is already taken for gymnastics, bus conversion, soccer, etc.

Here is a pic where you can see the quality engineering that is going into this monster... anybody out there know the sheer streangth of duct tape? We are building beams from drywall studs for lightness; duct tape for the prototype / layout, rivit & welding for the build. Stay tuned for more disasterous details! w00t!